Savouring Montreal’s Iconic Bagels: A Culinary Journey Through History and Flavour
Montreal takes its bagels seriously – and for good reason. These chewy rings of dough are more than just a breakfast staple; they’ve become a symbol of the city’s melting pot, a dish steeped in history and immigrant lore.
In this blog post, we delve into the fascinating history behind these beloved treats, explore the traditional baking process that sets them apart, and uncover the top two bagel shops in Montreal where you can experience these mouth-watering delights firsthand.
The History of the Montreal Bagel
Dating back to the late 19th century, Montreal bagels have a storied past rooted in Jewish immigrant culture. Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe, particularly from Russia and Poland, brought their bagel-making skills with them when they migrated to North America around the turn of the 20th century. Seeking refuge from persecution and seeking economic opportunities, many settled in cities like New York and Montreal, where they established thriving communities and culinary traditions. Inspired by the bagels of Eastern Europe, Montreal’s Jewish community brought their traditional baking methods to the city, resulting in the creation of a unique, slightly sweet, and chewy variation of the classic bagel. They adapted their traditional bagel recipes to suit local tastes and ingredients.
Over the decades, Montreal bagels have become an integral part of the city’s culinary identity, cherished by locals and sought after by food enthusiasts around the world.
The Top Two Bagel Shops in Montreal
Montreal bagels are more than just a snack; they’re a symbol of tradition, innovation, and culinary craftsmanship. Whether you’re biting into a warm fresh bagel from Fairmount Bagel or St-Viateur Bagel Shop, you’re experiencing a piece of Montreal’s rich cultural heritage.
Fairmount Bagel
Fairmount Bagel is a legendary destination for Montreal bagel lovers. Situated just a few blocks away from St-Viateur, Fairmount Bagel has been perfecting its time-honoured baking techniques for over a century.
In 1919, Isadore Shlafman arrived in Canada from his native Russia and opened the first bagel bakery in Montreal. It was then called the “Montreal Bagel Bakery” and was located off a laneway near St-Laurent Blvd. This is where Montrealers got their first taste of hand-rolled and wood-fire oven-baked bagels. In 1949, the bakery moved to Fairmount Street and was renamed “The Original Fairmount Bagel Bakery”. Mr. Shlafman’s grandchildren still manage the business today and still use the traditional techniques perfected by their grandfather. From the moment you step inside Fairmount Bagel, you’re greeted by the irresistible aroma of freshly baked bagels. With flavours ranging from poppy seed to all-dressed, it’s a must-visit for anyone seeking an authentic taste of Montreal.
Fun fact: Fairmount Bagels made it to space! In 2008, Greg Chamitoff, astronaut and cousin to the current owners, brought 18 bagels with him on his voyage to the International Space Station.
St-Viateur Bagel Shop
St-Viateur Bagel Shop is an iconic institution in Montreal’s bagel scene. Located in the heart of the Mile End neighbourhood, this beloved shop churns out thousands of hand-rolled, wood-fired bagels every day. Whether you prefer classic sesame or adventurous flavours like rosemary sea salt, St-Viateur offers a wide variety of options to satisfy any craving.
In 1953, Holocaust survivor Myer Lewkowicz arrived in Canada, escaping a past of hardship and tragedy. He grew up as part of a large, poor family in a village on the outskirts of Krakow, Poland. During World War II, he suffered the misfortune of being captured by the Nazis and taken to Buchenwald concentration camp. Despite his lack of baking skills, he found a new beginning in Montreal working for Hyman Seligman at the Montreal Bagel Bakery off of St-Laurent Blvd.
Through determination and hard work, he mastered the craft of bagel making and in 1957, he opened the landmark St-Viateur Bagel Shop with his wife, Emma and former employer Seligman. In 1974, Mr. Lewkowicz partnered with Joe Morena, a long-term employee who started working for St-Viateur Bagel at the age of fifteen. Joe was affectionately nicknamed “Yosel” and eventually became quite proficient in the Yiddish language. The two worked together as partners until Mr. Lewkowicz died in 1994. Joe then partnered with Marco Sblano to continue the St-Viateur Bagel tradition.
Grab a piping-hot dozen in a paper bag to go and be sure to take a few minutes before you leave to browse the Wall of Fame showcasing celebrity snaps and a gazillion newspaper and magazine features.
The Difference Between a Montreal bagel and a New York City bagel
The age-old rivalry between Montreal and New York City extends beyond sports teams and cultural icons – it extends to the realm of bagels. At the heart of this culinary clash lies the debate between Montreal bagels and their New York counterparts. While both share common origins rooted in Jewish immigrant communities, the differences are as distinct as the cities themselves.
What sets Montreal bagels apart from their New York counterparts is not just their flavour but also the baking method. Made with simple ingredients like unbleached flour, water, yeast, sugar, Montreal bagels are hand-rolled, boiled in honey-infused water, and then baked in wood-fired ovens. This process gives them their distinctive crispy exterior and soft chewy exterior, with a hint of sweetness that tantalizes the tastebuds. In contrast, New York City bagels are bulkier, softer, fluffier and often boiled in water containing malt syrup before being baked in standard conventional ovens.
So, is the bagel feud as old as time itself? Perhaps not, but it’s certainly a spirited debate that continues to fuel passionate discussions among bagel aficionados on both sides of the border. Whether you find yourself in Montreal or New York City, one thing is certain: the quest for the perfect bagel remains an enduring culinary adventure
When your next adventure brings you to Montreal, come and immerse yourself in the MTL Detours “Explore Plateau Mont-Royal & Mile End Walking Tour”. Our fun & informative guides will lead you through the neighbourhood where both of these iconic bagel establishments are found – a bagel tasting is on us!
